Training
Wheels
Jane Bynum
Introduction:
This
scarf was designed as a learning project for knitters with some
general experience, but none with lace knitting. Because it has a
three-row pattern repeat in garter stitch, it is completely
reversible. Because it has two plain rows between each of the rows
of openwork, it is hard to get lost in the pattern and easy to repair
mistakes. Because both ends of the scarf are knit in the same
direction, the ripples at the bottom match.
The
skills required include provisional cast on, yarn-over, and
directional decreases.
The
pattern was inspired by Myrna Stahman's Elegant Seamen's
Scarves (Interweave Knits, Fall 1998). The stitch pattern
is derived from Barbara Abbey's Baby Fan (The Complete Book of
Knitting). It fits broadly into the Shetland family of
Shell/Shale/Fan patterns, but the three-row repeat is not
traditional.
Materials:
An
average length scarf should use about 200-300 yards of wool or
wool-blend yarn in any weight from fingering to light worsted.
Needles one or two sizes larger than the size recommended on the ball
band or the size it takes to make a pleasing fabric with the yarn of
choice. The finished scarf should be 6" to 8" wide over the
lace portion. The prototype was worked in sport-weight wool on US 6
needles. It has 15" of ribbing and 16" in pattern on each end.
The original scarf from the Seamen's Institute has 18" ribbing in
the middle and 14" garter stitch on each end. Most of Myrna
Stahman's scarves have longer lace sections.
Pattern
Stitch:
See
Note 1
Row
1: Slip 1, K 3 * SSK 2 times, (YO, K1) 3 times, YO, K2tog 2 times,
K1, repeat from * twice, K3.
Row
2: Slip 1, K across.
Row
3 : Slip 1, K across.
Note
1: Myrna Stahman recommends slipping purlwise with yarn in front,
then taking the yarn to the back to continue the row. Slipping the
first stitch knitwise or purlwise with the yarn in back produces an
equally tidy, but different, selvage, with less bother, so long as
the direction is consistent.
Note
2: My favorite provisional cast-on produces a first row that is
usually tighter than the following rows. I find it quicker to knit
an extra row and then tink it out than to use waste yarn the way
Sharon Miller recommends in Heirloom Knitting.
Note
3: Any increase will work in garter stitch, but the raised increase
made by lifting and twisting the running thread between two stitches
and then knitting into it is my choice for the increase between the
ribbing and pattern.
Scarf
Directions:
Cast
on 42 stitches, using waste yarn and/or your favorite provisional
cast-on (Note 2). Knit three rows.
Work
in 3 X 3 ribbing for 15-18 inches, depending on the neck size of the
prospective wearer. On next row, k21, increase1 (Note 3), k21.
Knit 1 more row. Start lace pattern at row 1. Continue in pattern
until the lace section is 16-24" long. Knit 12 rows (6 purl ridges
on each side). Bind off.
Remove
the provisional cast-on from the other end, then pick out the first
row, slipping the stitches from the next row onto a needle (Note 2).
Include ½ stitches from both ends, for a total of 43. There
should be 1 purl ridge on each side. Begin lace pattern at row 1.
Work to match first end.
If
you don't know if you have enough yarn, knit both ends at the same
time, side-by-side on the needle, until the yarn is almost used up,
then finish with the garter stitch edge.
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